Balsamic vinegar represents one of Modena's most ancient and authentic traditions. There are traces of it in the records as far back as the XI Century, and it was certainly used by the Este dukes as a special gift and sign of favour. For centuries, balsamic vinegar was produced in the dry air of attics passed on from generation to generation by families of all ranks, for their own consumption or as a precious gift. It was in 1967 that balsamic vinegar came into the market place, when the Town Council of Spilamberto organised a competition for producers of natural balsamic vinegar as part of the town's traditional St John's Fair. Interest grew quickly, and 1969 saw the establishment of a Consortium (Consorteria dell'Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale) to promote the production and status of traditional balsamic vinegar. Most of its members were amateur producers, but this Consortium was followed by another to safeguard the quality of traditionally produced vinegar intended for sale. The unique characteristics of this vinegar, perhaps the product which best illustrates the homely origins of Italy's most delicious foods, are the result of an ageing process which may take from 12 to 25 years or even more. Traditional balsamic vinegar may only be sold in the special bottles designed for the Consortium, with the producer's name indicated on the label.